Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
